Do you want to design something that matches the existing thread on the bottle or bottle cap? It turns out that there is a simpler way than tiredly reaching for a caliper and guiding the inner reverse engineer. Bottle cap threads-the industry term is bottleneck-are not random things; they are highly standardized, [Noupoi] has studied all of this, so you don't have to! The cap screw calculator takes some key measurements and outputs everything needed to simulate an exact match. Need some guidance on how to accurately use the information output by the calculator? There is a convenient link to the Fusion360 tutorial to demonstrate the creation of a bottle line (YouTube video).

It all comes from [Noupoi] wanting to model an adapter that transfers the contents of one bottle to another smaller bottle. By identifying the threads used on each bottle, it is much easier to model the matching adapter. It turns out that the bottleneck is SP 28-415 (larger) and 24-415 (smaller). Based on this information, the design of the adapter is much simpler. If you want to check the adapter, you can find it on Thingiverse.

If you really need to reverse engineer the bottle thread, here is a method we introduce, which involves making a simple cast and working from it.

I don't have a 3d printer yet, but the thread specification of ISBT is very convenient for me. May dab PCO-1881, which is the most common in my country/region.

Not bad, but still requires a lot of manual operation to get the final result in fusion360.

I hope this will evolve into a plug-in, it comes with a simple simple guide that can identify threads in a few steps ("measure this, then this,...finish"), and it will spit out a neck directly inside fusion360 The thread/cap thread, similar to how we have created the M thread or any thread available in the McMaster-Carr component library by selecting from the list.

For OpenSCAD, PCO-1881 (PET plastic soda bottle thread) can be made very easily using threadlib. https://github.com/adrianschlatter/threadlib#list-of-supported-threads https://hackaday.io/page/5252-generating-nice-threads-in-openscad

I use OpenSCAD for modeling because I have "programming thinking" and it is very easy to modify the design by changing the parameters. There is a perfect thread library in OpenSCAD: https://github.com/adrianschlatter/threadlib It supports: * Metric thread (coarse, fine and super fine pitch) M0.25 to M600 * Unified inch thread (UNC, UNF) , UNEF, 4-UN, 6-UN, 8-UN, 12-UN, 16-UN, 20-UN, 28-UN and 32-UN). All threads are type 2 threads. * BSP parallel thread G1/16 to G6 * PCO-1881 (PET bottle thread)

So recently I wanted to use a wine bottle as the water tank of the drinker, and designed a small adapter to make it stand upside down in a water bowl. This is:

Use nut ("M30x2.5", number of turns=4, Doter=36); specification = thread_specs("M30x2.5");

$fn=100; difference () {translation ([0,0,11]) color ("red") cylinder (d = 36, h = 20); translation ([0,0,10]) color ("red ”) Cylinder (d = 30.5, h = 22);

translate([0,0,21])color("blue")cube([12,100,20],center=true); translate([0,0,21])color("blue")cube([100, 12,20],center=true);}

Thanks for the informative post! I also appreciate good examples of how to use OpenSCAD.

Yes, I really don’t understand why people want to use anything else to design parts. We can write a parameter file, and then only need to change some variables, we can get the lifetime value of any variant we need in this section. Why would anyone want to use a manual CAD program?

But then I was a programmer during the day, so I was already familiar with it.

Don't try to tell me that for those who have neither programming experience nor traditional CAD experience, other tools are easier to learn. I am trying to figure out how to make small changes to what I found online in Fusion 360 and FreeCAD. Both felt a bit like sitting in front of the console of a space shuttle and being told to land or die without training.

I know why you use other things, and I almost exclusively use OpenSCAD. Squeezing is clumsy, and doing constraints (this face touches that face) requires a library and some practice...

But things like gears, screws, and massage tolerances are great to make things "just right". This is what I do more than anything else. So I suck it up and sometimes do some trigonometry on paper, which may be a problem of shaking the mouse in another package. But this is the cost of effortless screws and extremely simple parts reuse.

I should really study FreeCAD, it seems to integrate the advantages of OpenSCAD with other modes, but I never took the time to study it in depth...so I think OpenSCAD is not that kind of limitation after all. :)

Material issues-plastic containers and glass facing threads may have different cross-sectional profiles-search for "GPI" or "SPI" finishes for more details. When you enter the lug seal or roll coating finish , They may also be different. If you try to pair a plastic threaded container with a glass threaded joint, and vice versa, without taking this into account, you may be in trouble.

The calculator provides good access to the bottle thread standards. In FreeCAD (0.19, I haven't tried it in the old version...), I just open the ThreadProfile workbench, enter the number in the calculator preset, and then click, thread. Sweet. :)

Very good information, thank you! I recently started using FreeCAD

Fusion is good at many things, but unfortunately, in terms of threads, it is a bit bad because it can only handle a single flute thread. (Of course you can model a custom by yourself, but it's a bit contrary to the point of simplicity and the use of threading tools.) As an example, a common thread that most people come into contact with is a fusion that cannot be done with its generator. Thread on the tank. (This is actually multiple standards, depending on which part of the world you are in)

Cover the threads with pipe thread tape and apply hot melt adhesive on the tape. Wait for it to cool down. Unscrew. complete!

A low-tech method is to wrap some PTFE tape (usually used for pipe threads) on the threads and apply epoxy putty on them. It will be molded onto the threads nicely, and the Teflon ensures that you can still remove it after the epoxy has hardened.

Definitely prefer disposables.

Use epoxy resin carefully. They tend to swell and gel in long-term contact with water.

What about ABS pulp?

You can make a kind of putty with ground ABS and MEK, but it is best to lay a few thin layers first. Then it dries and leaves only ABS. So this can be used with thread tape.

As with the use of blow-molded bottles as a heat-shrinking technique, it is only necessary to use a slightly larger or tightly fitting medicine bottle on the largest medicine bottle and heat-shrink it.

Another option is those self-welding repair tapes.

Is MEK more effective than acetone?

If you use a fixed adapter to pour things from one bottle to another, how do you remove the adapter? Since it is straight, you always have one bottle upside down, or both bottles are set aside, both of which will cause the liquid to spill when you unscrew the adapter.

This seems completely meaningless, unless you try to catch the last drop from the soap bottle (hint: add a little water and shake).

I suspect this is what he wants to do. If a bottle is not empty, how can he install the adapter?

Yes, if you cut a bottle, it will become a funnel. The funnel can then be fixed to another bottle using an adapter designed with the help of these auxiliary calculation utilities.

For slow-flowing liquids (motor oil), a bottle-to-bottle adapter – https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3907661 – is a feasible method.

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