Through this quick question series, we will show quick fixes and collect comments from experienced riders on specific DIY mountain bike repairs. Although most of these trail classifications are covered in our maintenance articles and videos, this is a space for long-time riders and readers of the Singletracks community to share their knowledge. Please enter your relevant experience and suggestions in the comments below. Do you have a quick question? 🤔 Email [email protection]

The technical issues submitted by our recent readers are as old as the shifting and brake lines themselves. "The small ferrule at the end of my derailleur cable always slips off. Do I need special tools to crimp tightly, or am I missing some secret technology?"

The ferrule or cable end is used to prevent the derailleur and lifter cables from fraying at their cut ends. Although the frayed cable end usually works, it is good to be able to remove the cable and reinstall it if necessary, and the clean end also looks better than the steel pigsty at the end of the line. In addition, the frayed end of the cable on the terminal remote can puncture the skin, which is certainly worth preventing.

There are many ways to crimp the ferrule at the end of the cable, but there does not seem to be an accepted standard on how to tighten the small aluminum cap in place. A common crimping method is to use a pair of cable cutters to place two sharp dents on the ferrule, being careful not to cut through the cable itself. Or, many people use a pair of needle-nose pliers to tighten the cylinder, or use crimping tools specifically designed for electrical work. No matter which instrument you choose, it is important to give the ferrule a healthy tug to ensure it is tight enough.

In addition to fixing the ferrule in place, we would love to hear about your other cable management tips. Some classic ways to omit the ferrule are to drop a bit of super glue on the end immediately after cutting, or similar solder wire points, thick nail polish, or a large piece of heat shrink tubing designed to wrap narrow wires. Many of these alternative methods can be removed or slipped through the narrow cable channel of the transmission without wear while working on a bicycle.

I used to work in a bicycle shop, where our chief mechanic would cut the cables to a certain length, then take them outside and light the loose ends on the car battery terminals to fuse the thin wires together. What a clever cat.

now you! Please share your cable tip finishing skills in the comments below.

Well, let me see if mine is still in place 😅

I usually use the cheap electrical crimper route, but some people know that I will apply a bit of superglue to the end of the cable to prevent it from fraying during installation and to allow any minor adjustments before crimping the ferrule.

Soldering works wonders. Follow up with spoke nipples and everything goes well.

who cares. Cycling!

Crimping with wire cutters 2 or 3 times will usually keep them for me until I am ready to remove them. But applying a little transparent nail polish before sliding on the curl seems to really fix it, and it's not as brittle as super glue. It can also be used as a substitute for thread locker on bolts (most bike shops I have worked or used usually have a bottle).

I also noticed that they are usually knocked down by repeated impacts, such as in line with the tires-although this is especially true in the era of front derailleurs and V brakes. I found it helpful to make the cable long enough to wind it 180 degrees, and then use a small tie to tie it to itself or to the housing.

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